Lago d’Iseo, Italy – a Travel Memory of the Future
Continuing my visit to Lago d’Iseo, Italy . . .
This is the view I had when I pulled back the curtains. Appearing to float in Lago d’Iseo, surrounded on both sides by mountains, is St. Paolo’s Island. It’s a private island with a palace that was on a sacked former monastery.
Since my room had a kitchette, I had a quick breakfast in my room of dried store-bought pastries and coffee. I walked 50 meters to the tiny ferry dock and grabbed the passenger ferry from Sensole (it was now running) to the largest village on Monte Isola, Peschiera Maraglio. I didn’t see a single tourist, only locals.
The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views. Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.
I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village. Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog. I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found. Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts. And there were very few young people.
I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village. Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog. I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found. Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts. And there were very few young people.
The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views. Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.
I ferried back to Sulzano to get my car to take in more of the views around the lake. My ultimate destination was to see the Piramidis or “Fairies of the Forest”, adjacent to the tiny foothill village of Cislano, above the northeastern shore. It did not disappoint.
Piramidi are limestone pinnacles that are holding up boulders. Erosion has found a way to perfectly support and balance the rocks. It is an eerie sight. It looked like it might have inspired Roger Dean, the fantasy artist, famous for the band, Yes’, album covers.
In the village Cislano I felt like I had traveled back in time. Smoke was coming out of chimneys in the modest terracotta tile topped houses. A few were vacant, crumbled, and overgrown with weeds. There was a tiny church, St. George’s, which overlooked the lake and mountains, doors were wide open allowing access to view walls adorned with medieval frescoes. It was as simple as the village.
I was far away from the hustle and bustle of the industrialized fashion and design mecca of Milan. I felt like this was so much of what Italy is about. After driving around the lake for a couple more hours, I drove back to Sulzano to park my car and then ferry back to Monte Isola. As we ferried into Peschiera Maraglio, I spotted the fish drying off a balcony. I disembarked to purchase my usual Christmas ornament momento and a few post cards in a tiny gift shop. I grabbed the next ferry back to the Residence Vittoria and took this picture of the facility from the water.
Later on, at dinner, in the very vacant and quiet restaurant in the Residence Vittoria, the waiter told me that the fish was caught and dried locally. My mind immediately went back to that image of the hanging fish.
I felt that this experience worked for me and it was what travel was all about, surprises, native people with intact cultures and traditions, virtually untouched scenery, and a slower way of life.
The next day, I walked the 7 km (4.34 miles) pathway the meanders the perimeter of Monte Isola through the tiny villages. Still no cars, but plenty of stones houses, olive trees, grapevines, strolling villagers, domesticated animals, and always spectacular vistas. The highest point of Monte Isola, 600 metres (almost 2000ft) above sea level is topped by Madonna della Ceriola shrine, of course! The small Church dates from the 16th century. Pre-dating the shrine, near the village of Menzino, is the Martinengo Castle dating from the 15th century.
The air was fresh and invigorating. I slept well that night.
The next morning, after a very peaceful, quiet night, I work up refreshed and relaxed, and sorry that I had to leave so soon. It isn’t surprising that one of the names of the villages is Cure. It worked. I slowly packed, every few minutes pausing to look out at the view one more time in hopes of burning the image in my memory banks. It’s been there since.
I left Monte Isola having made one of life’s biggest decisions. I decided that this is where I want my ashes to be spread when I’m deceased. A few months later when I returned to Seattle I met with my estate attorney. We added a provision to my will that my ashes will be spread in Lago d’Iseo, off Monte Isola, with instructions for my executor to make the trip. Lucky partner or friend.
I happy to say that ten years later – to the day, I contacted the hotel and made a reservation for a return visit to Residence Vittoria this June. I know it can’t be the same because it will be high season. I take comfort in knowing that I will be surrounded, almost exclusively by Italians, because tourists are too distracted by the much larger Lakes; Como, Maggiore, and Garda. More about that trip later . . .
Happy Tripping,
Carter












Under Seat Space for your Personal Carry-On Bag and this is the Exit Row!
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