Continuing my visit to Lago d’Iseo, Italy . . .

This is the view I had when I pulled back the curtains.  Appearing to float in Lago d’Iseo, surrounded on both sides by mountains, is St. Paolo’s Island.  It’s a private island with a palace that was on a sacked former monastery.

Since my room had a kitchette, I had a quick breakfast in my room of dried store-bought pastries and coffee.  I walked 50 meters to the tiny ferry dock and grabbed the passenger ferry from Sensole (it was now running) to the largest village on Monte Isola, Peschiera Maraglio.  I didn’t see a single tourist, only locals.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I ferried back to Sulzano to get my car to take in more of the views around the lake.  My ultimate destination was to see the Piramidis or “Fairies of the Forest”, adjacent to the tiny foothill village of Cislano, above the northeastern shore.  It did not disappoint.

Piramidi are limestone pinnacles that are holding up boulders.  Erosion has found a way to perfectly support and balance the rocks.  It is an eerie sight.  It looked like it might have inspired Roger Dean, the fantasy artist, famous for the band, Yes’, album covers.

In the village Cislano I felt like I had traveled back in time.  Smoke was coming out of chimneys in the modest terracotta tile topped houses.  A few were vacant, crumbled, and overgrown with weeds.  There was a tiny church, St. George’s, which overlooked the lake and mountains, doors were wide open allowing access to view walls adorned with medieval frescoes.  It was as simple as the village.

I was far away from the hustle and bustle of the industrialized fashion and design mecca of Milan.  I felt like this was so much of what Italy is about.  After driving around the lake for a couple more hours, I drove back to Sulzano to park my car and then ferry back to Monte Isola.  As we ferried into Peschiera Maraglio, I spotted the fish drying off a balcony.   I disembarked to purchase my usual Christmas ornament momento and a few post cards in a tiny gift shop.  I grabbed the next ferry back to the Residence Vittoria and took this picture of the facility from the water.

Later on, at dinner, in the very vacant and quiet restaurant in the Residence Vittoria, the waiter told me that the fish was caught and dried locally.  My mind immediately went back to that image of the hanging fish.

I felt that this experience worked for me and it was what travel was all about, surprises, native people with intact cultures and traditions, virtually untouched scenery, and a slower way of life.

The next day, I walked the 7 km (4.34 miles) pathway the meanders the perimeter of Monte Isola through the tiny villages.  Still no cars, but plenty of stones houses, olive trees, grapevines, strolling villagers, domesticated animals, and always spectacular vistas. The highest point of Monte Isola, 600 metres (almost 2000ft) above sea level is topped by Madonna della Ceriola shrine, of course!  The small Church dates from the 16^th century.  Pre-dating the shrine, near the village of Menzino, is the Martinengo Castle dating from the 15^th century.

The air was fresh and invigorating.  I slept well that night.

The next morning, after a very peaceful, quiet night, I work up refreshed and relaxed, and sorry that I had to leave so soon.  It isn’t surprising that one of the names of the villages is Cure.  It worked.  I slowly packed, every few minutes pausing to look out at the view one more time in hopes of burning the image in my memory banks.  It’s been there since.

I left Monte Isola having made one of life’s biggest decisions.  I decided that this is where I want my ashes to be spread when I’m deceased.  A few months later when I returned to Seattle I met with my estate attorney.  We added a provision to my will that my ashes will be spread in Lago d’Iseo, off Monte Isola, with instructions for my executor to make the trip.  Lucky partner or friend.

I happy to say that ten years later – to the day, I contacted the hotel and made a reservation for a return visit to Residence Vittoria this June.  I know it can’t be the same because it will be high season.  I take comfort in knowing that I will be surrounded, almost exclusively by Italians, because tourists are too distracted by the much larger Lakes; Como, Maggiore, and Garda.  More about that trip later . . .

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Hey Trippers,

One travel tip I’ve learned over the years I can pass on is flexibility.  Especially, when it comes to accommodation.   I have never understood how anyone can book two weeks of accommodation in advance.  I can understand it if you go for a weekend – or maybe a week away – in a popular destination’s peak season.  (But I wouldn’t recommend that you go during that time anyway.)

Open to Whimsy from Your “Hub”

When I run through many of my travel memories that have stuck with me and felt like a real sense of adventure, they happened when I practiced flexibility.   All too often I find that I enjoy a place too much that I want to spend more time there – or rarely, less.  If I have a week of reservations ahead of me that can’t be broken, I can’t enjoy that place longer.  I tend to book accommodation in a destination and look at it as being a hub.  I use the “hub” as a base and go in each direction exploring, then move on to the next “hub”.

Visit a Tourist Office and Use the Web!

I know, you think you don’t want to waste time going from hotel to hotel after you arrive at your destination.  Most destinations have tourist offices that are more than happy to assist you.  On this trip, we made sure we booked accommodation with Internet, either in room or lobby.  We used www.booking.com,  www.lastminute.com, and our “reward points” websites.  There was plenty of availability.  This trip showed me the value of having an iPhone or an Internet connecting PDA.  You can literally book while you travel.  This freedom allows you to stop, explore, linger, and stay – or – move on if a destination doesn’t meet your expectations.

Two Must Nights to Pre-Book Accommodation

The one area I don’t allow any flexibility in my accommodation booking is the day I land and the night before I take off.   I book the first night or two and the last night – well before I leave.  The reserved accommodation will be near my first day destination and near the airport of my departure on the night before.  I make sure I’m booked the first night because I won’t be in any condition to book or search for a hotel when I land (given the time change and the length of air travel).

A Dangerous Landing

On this trip, I landed at Heathrow airport, rented a car, and drove two hours to my hotel that was pre-booked in Birmingham, Midlands.  I was traveling with someone who, thankfully, did the driving.  If I were alone there would have been serious problems.  I could not keep my eyes open.  I was exhausted from the long flights, not enough sleep, and the pre-departure preparations.  If I were alone, I would have stopped to nap in the car after leaving the airport.  It was that bad.  So, plan well.  Evaluate how you really are when you land on the first day of your trip.  Packing and negotiating airports and public transport is exhausting.

Ensure a Delightful Finish

The final night of my trip is booked because I do not take any chances with my getting to the airport on time.  I would not recommend being any further than one hour or less drive from the airport you’re departing from, especially, if you have a departure before noon.  What could happen?  Lots . . . . You could be ill after an exhaustive trip or exposure to a virus or bacteria.  You could be involved in or delayed by a car / public transport accident or delay.  You could have left a belonging / electronic / camera lens, passport along your trip and need to go back for it making you late for your flight.  At least if you have a room reserved, you could stop to rest and regroup for your departure flight.

Still Able to Maintain Budget

Booking a room at a hotel near the airport doesn’t have to be expensive.  Most accommodation caters to business travelers.  You will easily find a better rate on weekends.  There are less expensive hotels located a bit further from the hotel that often offer a free shuttle as an incentive for you to stay there.  (Book that shuttle in advance, if possible)  Rates on weekdays will be higher but usually a busy international airport will have a wide variety of nightly rates and amenities.

On this trip, I booked my final night at the Sheraton Frankfurt Hotel & Towers.  It is literally attached to the airport.  What a pleasure it was and a great way to finish my trip by waking, having a good breakfast, and walking over a skybridge into the airport terminal.  I booked a room using a Starwood Preferred Guest “Cash and Points” scheme.  I used 4000 Starpoints and paid US$60.00(€42.00) for the convenience.

Upgrade!!!

When, I arrived, I checked into the spacious room with modern amenities – and found it was dirty from the previous night!  I called down to the front desk.  They apologized and assigned me another room with a room upgrade.  I was now on the Executive Floor!  This gave me access to the Executive Lounge.  The lounge was spacious, included (at no extra charge) all the chef-prepared food, snacks, beverages (soft drinks, wine, beer, liquor), and a breakfast buffet in the morning.  What a way to finish a trip!

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Part 3 in a series of how I traveled to Europe and back for three weeks on a budget.

Hey Trippers,

Today I will focus on using hotel points, awards, how to acquire them, and when to redeem them.  Hotel costs regularly exceed airfare and transportation costs on any holiday.  This is an important way to reduce your trip overhead.

Disclaimer: I DO NOT ENDORSE ANY PRODUCT BELOW.  I am using them only as an example.

Join a Rewards Program and CHOOSE CAREFULLY – Choose a reward program and think it through.  Personally, I keep my hotel choices within hotel groupings that are in only two programs.  I do have memberships in a few other programs but focus on Hilton Honors and Starwood Preferred Guest.  For the most part, these two programs fulfill my needs domestically and internationally.  (I fill in the gaps with local hotels that are culturally significant at reasonable rates)  Both Award Programs have a spectrum of accommodation rates and property quality from BUDGET to LUXURY, which is what you want the programs you choose to have.

Hotel Reward Program Credit Cards – Sign up for a Hotel Rewards Credit Card (See programs below) for a group of hotels that have a broad spectrum of accommodation classes.  Personally, I have a Hilton Honors American Express and a Starwood Preferred Guest American Express.  Some of the credit cards charge yearly fees and some don’t.  Makes sure you confirm the one you use.  DO NOT do this if you cannot pay your credit card balance off in its entirety every month (interest rates approach loan shark rates) or if you are prone to be late paying bills (penalty fees are ridiculously high).

Point Acquisition – The programs will award you anywhere between 10 points and 1 point per dollar depending on what you spend your credit card on; the hotels themselves, gas stations, credit cards, on-line malls, or grocery stores.   You can usually acquire the most points for actually paying for a hotel stay and dining on the property.

Pay Low Redeem High - The trick is when it is on your dollar; you stay in one of their accommodations as cheaply as possible to earn points.  When you go away on personal business, visiting Grandma, or other non-holiday hotel stays, that’s when you stay in a modest accommodation within the hotel reward program.  Then, during the dream trip or holiday stay in the more expensive or popular hotels using points.  For instance, when on non-holiday accommodation stays; stay at a Hampton Inn or Hilton Garden Inn and when on your dream trip stay at the Hilton or Conrad using points.

On my trip, while in England and Austria, I paid to stay at Hilton Hotels (2 – 3 Star) at great rates (earning points and stays).  I found and booked the Hilton Hotels in England on-line and booked the Innsbruck Hilton last minute (most stays included breakfast).  The England Hilton stays ranged between £69.00 (US$113.00) in Bromsgrove, Midlands, £89.00 (US$146.00) in London, and Innsbruck, Austria, €89.00 (US$127.00) per night.  Both hotels included breakfast as part of the room rate.  In London, my Hilton Honors status enabled me to get a room upgrade and breakfast included.  I used Starwood Preferred Guest points to stay in a Venice 5 Star Hotel.  I redeemed points for my 5-night stay at The Europa and Regina Hotel on the Grande Canal.  The Premium Deluxe Room I stayed in was €380.00 (US$540.00) per night when booked on-line in advance.  The breakfast buffet was €52.00 (US$74.00) per person and I used points for that – only once!  Overeating is no way to start a busy day of exploring.

Double Dipping - This is a good way to acquire double points.  When staying at an accommodation, use the same Reward Program Credit Card to pay for your stay.  Many of the hotel chains also award a block of air miles for each stay (one or more nights consecutively).  Many Rental Car Companies also award hotel points.  Check before you book.

Advance Booking - Redeeming points for hotel stays has to be done WELL IN ADVANCE.  The programs are popular!  There are only so many rooms they set aside for point redemption.  Peak times at popular hotels have the fewest point redemption rooms available.

Optimizing Redemption – Starwood Preferred Guest is the only program offering “Free Night Awards”.  This aspect awards you a fifth night free with every four nights you book with award points.  There is limited availability, so book ASAP.

Remember to optimize the points you acquire when making large purchases; furniture, cars, electronics (including computers), home repairs, landscaping, etc.  Negotiate as a part or all of payment to be able to use a credit card.  When I purchased my last car, I negotiated as a part of the deal to charge $10,000.00 on my Starwood Preferred Guest Credit Card.  That is a 5 night stay on many of their  properties.

Membership or Status Levels – Within a particular Reward Program, if you stay enough times and or acquire enough points (within a calendar year) your status within the program will get you additional perks.  Example: Hilton Honors has (lowest to highest) Blue, Silver VIP, Gold VIP, and Diamond VIP. Depending on property and availability, Gold VIP and Diamond VIP will get you an upgrade to the Executive Lounge Floor, which (depending on property) will afford you complimentary breakfast, snacks, and drinks throughout the day and evening.

Here’s a list of hotels and their programs;

Starwood Preferred Guest Program – Hotels include: Meridien, Four Points by Sheraton, Westin, W Hotels, St. Regis, Sheraton, aloft, and the Luxury Collection

Hilton Honors – Hilton, Conrad, DoubleTree, Embassy Suites, Hampton Inn, Hilton Garden Inn, Homewood Suites, The Waldorf Astoria Collection, and Home2 Suites

Priority Club Rewards – Holiday Inn, Holiday Inn Express, Crowne Plaza, Hotel Indigo, Staybridge Suites, and Candlewood Suites

Wyndham Rewards – Wyndham, Ramada, Days Inn, Super 8, Wingate, Baymont Ins & Suites, Howard Johnson, Travelodge, Knights Inn, Microtel, and Hawthorn.

Marriott Rewards – Marriott, JW Marriott, Renaissance, Courtyard, Residence Inn, SpringHill Suites, and Fairfield Inn.

Choice Privileges –    Comfort Inn, Comfort Suites, Quality, Clarion, Cambria Suites, Main Stay Suites, Suburban, EconoLodge, Rodeway Inn, and Ascend Collection

Best Western Rewards – (Earn Points or Air Miles) Good at over 4000 Best Western Hotels in 80 countries.

Hyatt Gold Passport – Hyatt, Hyatt Place, and Hyatt Summerfield Suites

This should be a good start for you.  I know it can be complicated at times.  But once you get the hang of it, it’ll make sense.  There is more Hotel Reward Programs listed in the KNOW YOUR BUDGET download on the KNOW YOUR TRIP HOME PAGE.

Happy Point Acquisition,

Carter

Hey Trippers,

I know when you think of going to Italy, probably Rome, Florence, Venice, and Naples are at the top of your list.  That’s rightfully so.  However, there is an alternative to those heavily touristed destinations; Trieste.

First a little background.  A dear friend of mine, Rafaella, from my days living in London, is a wonderful and sweet Italian woman.  (Check back to these pages for the launch date of her delicious line of chocolates)  She was raised in Trieste and her family still lives there.  Rafaella always told me that Trieste was a delightful secret to be discovered in Italy.  So, during my trip to Europe last May I was determined to make it there.  Raffaella provided me with some valuable information of what to see while visiting Trieste.

I landed in Munich to pick up a car and headed there with just one stop in Salzburg, Austria.  The drive from Salzburg and Austrian Alps through the Italian Carnic Alps and down to the flat Veneto plain was spectacular.

The stretch from Salzburg to Trieste was about 5 ½ hours drive including rest stops.  Keep in mind, that I was maintaining quite a clip in the new car.  Unfortunately, other than Salzburg, I had no time to hang out in the Alps on this trip.  My hope had been to visit Slovenia and Croatia too because the three countries meet there.  I intended to cross the border from Italy into the Istrian Peninsula in Croatia but my car insurance wouldn’t allow me to enter Croatia at all.  Next trip. . . .

Even though I knew Trieste was tucked away in that little corner along the Adriatic Sea, I didn’t expect the dramatic entrance to the city from the inner coastal “Carso” Kras plateau on which the Autostrada flows along.  After exiting the Autostrada, one descends on switch backs (reminded me of Monaco) down into the city.  Despite having a population of about 220,000 inhabitants, it seems like it should have more.  It’s densely packed from the shores of the Adriatic Sea up to the coastal mountains and the plain beyond.

I found it to be much like other large Italian cities, a bit frenetic, massive piazzas, a medieval castle, grand monuments, and plenty of al fresco dining.  Like other northern Italians, the locals seemed a little more restrained than southern Italians.

I booked and pre-paid Hotel San Giusto (A Best Western), a 3 star accommodation, just a few days in advance.  Surprisingly, hotel rates in Trieste were expensive, given that it rates much lower on the tourist demand totem pole.  Overall, for a city this size, there were not a lot of properties to choose from.  (I heard its a very popular destination for the nearby land-locked Slovenians)  The nearer the water, the higher the rate.  Hotel Giusto was moderately priced @ €98.00 ($137.00) per night, had great service, air conditioning, a friendly and helpful front desk, free in-room internet (password from front desk) an extensive breakfast buffet (included in the price), and a safe, below-the-hotel secure parking garage @ €16.00 ($22.30) per night.  There was no view for that price and I just wanted quiet and comfortable.  It was located uptown and had me concerned about the distance to the waterfront.  That concern was soon put to rest as a bus left from a few feet from the door of my hotel right down to the waterfront.

Trieste has a Austro-Hapsburg heritage, which not only means grand buildings but excellent restaurants and pastries.  We found consistently excellent pasticcerias with a variety of different sandwiches and baked goods for inexpensive and memorable meals on the go.

I kept the car parked and bought public transport day passes for €3.50 per day.  It’s easy to get around and locals are helpful.  There was not much English but enough to keep things going smoothly.

I had an good ( 8 out 10 rating) al fresco meal at “al barattolo” on Trieste’s Canal Grande.

The restaurant had nice views along the Grand Canal and excellent focaccia!  Usually, the bread in Italy is the most disappointing part of my meal but theirs was special.  My “Verdura alla Piastra” (grilled seasonal vegetables) for €9.20($) with mayonaise dipping sauce was very good.  The “Pizza con Bufala Mozzarella” €8.40 ($)was not what was hoped for but was enjoyed.  Remember, restaurants in Italy charge a “copertino”, cover charge, of around €2.00 ($) per person.

I stopped by Illy Café because the international company started in Trieste some 75 years ago.  It’s decor was ultra-modern.  I had expected a more traditional Italian Espresso Bar.  I enjoyed my espresso but have had better.  They have a Dark Roast Whole Bean Blend, Nero, that is available only at this store and nowhere else in the world.

The Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia is on the Adriatic Water front and is surrounded by 18th and 19th century grand palazzos; Stratti, Modello, Pitteri, and “Vanoli”.

You’ll find the Official Tourist Office of Trieste there in the Palazzo del Municipio (Town Hall), behind the fountain.

The locals hang out along the waterfront to watch the sunset.

Sitting on the Molo Audace watching the sunset and then turning around to see the colors on the Palazzos lining the Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia was one of those moments.  Rafaella told me that it is tradition to watch the sun hit the water as it sets.  At that moment, look for the green spot and if you see it you will have eternal happiness.  I love that!

The next day, I walked from my hotel down hill to the Castello di San Giusto (1470 – 1630) – entrance €5.00 ($7.00).

It’s a simple but dominant structure overlooking the city.  You have a 360° view from its ramparts.

There are Roman ruins in the Piazza di Cattedrale, a grand statue (Caduati Monument), an armory museum (in the Castello), and the Castello has a few rooms with period decor.  The Castello is adjacent to the modest but none-the-less beautiful Cattedrale di San Giusto (14th century).

Have a seat in a pew and watch just how much this church means to the locals.

From there I zig-zagged my way down to the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre from the 1st century.

It’s quite intact considering and right across the Trieste Police Headquarters.  You can’t go in it, just have your picture taken in front of it with the other tourists.

I took a bus from Piazza Oberdan to the lovely Castello di Miramare in the Parco di Miramare.

It’s a beautiful seaside castle, adjacent to beautiful gardens, on the sparkling Adriatic, and has a fascinating tragic history.

Note: make sure you ask the bus driver for the exact stop.  I wasn’t the only one confused.

From there I walked along the “Barcolo” back towards town.

It’s a feast of sunbathing bodies lining the rocky shore along the blue green Adriatic Sea.  There is Ostello Tergeste ( Hostel) that is a must for those on a budget.  What a location!

I grabbed a bus back to Piazza Oberdan and picked up the Tram di Opicina (circa 1902 Tram/Funicular/Rack Railway) up to the “Carso” Kras top town of Opicina.

The fare was covered in my Transportation Day Pass.  It was worth the ride.

I will post the video on You Tube soon and link it to the blog.  The tram climbs the mountainside to the town of Opicina on the plateau above.

Because Venice and the Veneto was calling, I decided to pass on the Grotta Gigante. It’s one of the many caves in the “Carso” or Kras (coastal limestone mountain plateau).  Another reason I decided to move on was because somehow spelunking didn’t feel very Italian at the time.  I’ll visit this cavern next time because it is one of the largest you can go into in the world.

I’ll be adding Trieste as a Know Your Trip Destination city as we build the website.  I intend to go back and use Trieste as a base to tour the Istrian Peninsula.  Next time I will use a rental car instead of a purchased one.

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Hey Trippers,

For those of you that don’t already know.  My blog and the website project: www.knowyourtrip.com, aren’t just about traveling.  I don’t go to places to visit just to say I did.  The biggest enjoyment of my traveling is about immersing myself into another culture and learning more about how other people live and think.  A big part of that is hospitality.

As anyone who knows me will tell you, I have no problem striking up conversations with strangers.  It is me wanting to understand.  Understand how and why other people think the way they do.  It doesn’t always work out but I always come away with more understanding and feel better for it.

The second part of my project is to help enable people who have a passion for travel to do it on a budget.  In today’s world we don’t have the money to throw around.  Most people consider money to travel as a luxury.  My website isn’t about first class or luxury travel.  It’s about traveling on a budget.  I’m under no illusion that it doesn’t take money to travel.  It doesn’t have to be that way.

And now we have a great tool to enable everyone to travel on a budget.  It’s called The Couch Surfing Project!  This is a great website that puts travelers and budget (well, free) accommodation together.  The couch surfing means that you have a couch in your home available to host a traveler or two.  It isn’t just about hosting though.  You can state that you are “coffee and a drink” and this means that you are available to do just that.  You will enjoy a beverage with a traveler and show him around your town.

So, when you are unable to afford to travel, you can still share someone’s culture.  Open yourself up to a new understanding of a different culture, ethnic group, student, or wanderer.  Then, when it comes time for you to find some time off to travel, you can still do it on a budget.  for as much as an airfare and a bit of spending money you can experience a new culture.

Here’s a bit about how the website works:

• Join and become a member.

• Fill out your profile telling a little bit about yourself, languages you speak, add a photo or photo stream.

• State whether you are interested in not meeting up with anyone, you want top meet for “coffee and a drink”, or you have a “couch available”.  Then, fill out whether you have a couch, bed, bedroom, tent, floor or whatever, because many people aren’t picky when it’s free!

You’re probably worrying about safety and security.  “What if I host a serial killer?”  How American of you!!  Well, they have that covered too by using a “rating” system.  It’s kind of like EBay.  When you host someone, you log onto the website and write about your experience with your guest.  Part of the process is that he or she gets to do the same thing.  They rate you and your hosting.  So, you can log on and find about about someone before agreeing to host them and viceversa.

There’s an additional way you can reach out.  When you log in, you can see everyone that is visiting within a hundred miles of your house!  You can see how long ago they logged-in to the website.  this allows you to contact anyone in your area to say that you’re willing to show them around, meet for a drink, or you have a “couch” they can sleep on.

I have noticed that most of the members are in their twenties, but I have found some profiles in older demographics.  Like My Space and Facebook, I have a feeling that will change.  Before you know it, we mature individuals will realize that this is a great way to open up ourselves too people besides family, friends, city, town, country, and culture. the ‘Win Win” part is that we’ll show the world just how generous and wonderful we are.

Spend some time reading profiles and you’ll see there’s all sorts.  They all seem to have a few things in common; a passion for travel, sharing their culture, and experincing yours.  So, come on trippers, GO COUCH SURFING!  See you there . . .

Happy Tripping,  Carter

At the moment, I’m spending all my days writing about Campania and Naples. It’s taken me longer than I thought but there’s not a minute that goes by that I don’t wish I was back there – right now.

I’m not sure if you would fall in love with Naples as much I have. It’s a dirty, polluted, congested, crowded, and at times, a bit dangerous. Just look at the picture above. The buildings all look like they’re running into each other. It has the highest population density in Europe. I experienced the filthiest public bathroom ever – in the Garibaldi Train Station! The taxis and cars are small, beat up affairs. The scooters are like swarming flies and occasionally “accidentally” hook onto a tourist’s purse. But I still love Naples.

Over time, I’ll have to write more about my love of Campania – but today, Naples will give up one of its dirty-little-secrets. The focus of my trip was to visit Pompeii – a city awaken from it’s horribly induced sleep. A city that had been cruelly buried in fire and ash by the always looming Mt Vesuvius. But first, I was told I had to go to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale – The National Archeological Museum. This museum houses most everything that has been recovered from Pompeii during the last 260 years of excavations. I was told it puts what I will see in Pompeii in context. MMMMMMM So, I headed over to the museum. I forded the piazzas (squares) where traffic signs are a mere suggestion. Scooters, and ram-shackled cars about and the smell of the city. By the time I arrived at the museum . . . .

. . . . it was a pink oasis. PINK?!?! How cutting edge. I paid my entrance fee €6.50 ($8.75) and was informed that “the Segreto della Stanza” (secret room) will be opening soon and it has limited hours”. Secret room? This being Italy – I thought gambling? Pole dancing? Sex Shop? Well, yes, but in an ancient way. Ancient way you say? Well, you learn something everyday you travel and that’s one reason I love it so much. At the appointed time, the guard took his key and opened the fancy barred door. It creaked as he swung it open and mumbled in Italian “Soltanto Adulti (Adults only)”. Below, is the first item I was confronted with . . . .

Yikes! This was collected from a house in Pompeii. It stated that every home in Roman times had one of these over there hearth where they baked their bread. It was so the gods would make sure their bread was going to rise while it was baking. How must the women must have felt with that hanging where they cooked. (A few days later when I went to Pompeii – every house had a square indentation where this and all the other ones collected in Museums around the world originally were attached) I turned around and on the wall . . . . .

. . . this would also have hung, ahem, over the Pompeii residence’s oven too. It’s not as, well, prominent as the one above it. Then, the paintings – realistic stuff!!!! Well, if you really need to see it, it’s after the jump – not for kiddies’ eyes and make sure YOURS DON”T GET POKED OUT!

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After writing my latest knowyourtrip.com website destination, I thought I’d share a few observations.  I traveled to Italy on eight different trips.  My last trip to Italy was, a reluctant one, to Venice.  Reluctant you say?  I had heard all the stories: “The canals stink”, “How do they get off charging $12.00 for a cup of coffee”, “the hotels are a rip off and everyone is rude to you”, “the mozzies will eat you alive”, and “it’s so crowded”.  I didn’t want to go, but after the previous seven trips to Italy – that’s pretty much what was left.  So, I listened to the devil on my shoulder and booked a week in January and was ready for the worst . . . .

Venice was one of the – if not THE best trip I’d had to Italy.  It was different.  Venice is like a city turned inside out and in another dimension.  No cars are allowed.  You couldn’t drive while there if you wanted to.  The roads are waterways.  So, getting around is by boat or foot.  Unlike the rest of Italy, there are no scooters.  And no bicycles!

After arriving at Venice’s Marco Polo airport, you have options in how you want to arrive in Venice.  You can take a publicly run Water Bus or a privately run Water Taxi.  I choose the other option, a Land Bus.  You buy your tickets for the bus at the airport kiosk (it’s a tiny airport), board and in 20 minutes you’re dropped off at Piazzale Roma next to the Santa Lucia Train Station. 

Once you arrive at Piazzale Roma, you can walk the maize of pontes (bridges) and fondamentas (canal-side street), board a Water Bus, or hire a Water Taxi to get to your hotel.  I choose to book a hotel within a short walk from Piazzale Roma.  One of my reasons for booking my hotel close to the Piazzale Roma was to be able to easily get on and off the city of islands. I prepaid my hotel to save on the rate.  

I stepped off the bus and it hit me – the smell of pollution – from the oil refinery across the Veneta Lagana (Lagoon) on the mainland and the diesel fueled boat exhaust.  The next thing that hit me was the imposing facade of the 17th century church, San Nicolò da Tolentino across the Rio Nuovo (canal).  What smell? I had left behind anything with wheels (except my luggage) and only heard the low rumble of small boats.

It was a five minute walk to my hotel, Al Sole, a former 14th century Palazzo (palace).I was in a new old world.  The Al Sole was on the Rio del Malcanton (canal), and it was drained and it smelled like rotten eggs and it was during the cold of January.  Imagine the smell the heat and humidity of the summer! HMMMMMMMM

One of the first things I did was walk back to the Piazzale Roma and boarded a Water Bus to cruise the length of the Grand Canal.  The backwards “S” shaped Grand Canal is lined with Palazzo after palazzo and church after church – all designed to impress everyone in the boats – centuries ago – before there was even a thought of cars.  The land based entrances to the palazzos are typically more modest.  

The ride down the Grand Canal was like a renaissance Disney’s “It’s a Small World”, thankfully, without the annoying song.  Only the whirrr of the boats and the ocassional animated conversation is what I heard.  As you navigate around the end of the first wide bend you start seeing the gondolas manned by the famous gondoliers.  Then time to pass under the iconic Ponte Railto (Bridge), round the next bend, and pass under the wooden “temporary for the past 76 years” Ponte Accademia (Bridge).  By the time you pass under the Ponte Accademia, in your sights is the dome of Santa Maria della Salute and it’s baroque exterior.  As the Water Bus exits the Grand Canal, on the left is the Campanile (Bell Tower) San Marco, all 96.8 meters (318 feet) of it.   

The Water Bus stopped at San Marco.  I stepped off into Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square).  With the 15th century light pink colored Palazzo Ducale on the right, the columns of San Marco and San Teodoro rising in front of you, the glistening gold Byzantine domes of the Basilica San Marco (1617AD), the colonnaded Procuratie Vechhie, and the swarming flocks of pigeons- you feel alive.  And the thrill of travel fills your nerve endings.  Without even going into a single building along the Piazza San Marco, you are seeing a square that looks the same today as it has for almost 200 years.  The new old part is the Ala Napoleonica Procuratie Nuovo on the eastern end – built by Napoleon!  If you turn around and leave the square, board the Water Bus, take it back to Piazzale Roma and board the bus back to the airport, and go back home, you will still feel like you had a thrill of a lifetime for years the rest of your life.

But I chose to stay another 6 days and cement the courtship.  Venice in the winter is devoid of tourists and populated by Italians that have taken back their flats.  Dine at a restaurant or stop for an espresso at a bar and listen to only Italian being spoken – that’ll never happen in summer.  There are no lines and there’s no rush.  You can ruminate over every one of Tintoretto’s 50 paintings at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco (1515AD), every piece Peggy Gugenheim’s modern art collection, and sit and count every pigeon in Piazza San Marco while drinking a $12.00 (€8.75) cup of cappuccino at beautiful Cafe Florian (1720AD).  As the sun went down every day and I walked the abandoned narrow alleyways back to the Al Sole, I felt as the Venetians must have felt before the city was discovered by the throngs of tourists.  Venice in the winter belongs on your “must do before I die” list.

Oh, and after two days I didn’t even smell the refinery or the rotten egg smell.  I wonder why . . .

Keep Tripping,

Carter 

Details:

Marco Polo Airport

Land Bus or Water Bus

Water Taxi

Al Sole Hotel

Guggenheim Museum

Basilica San Marco

Cafe Florian

I just finished writing my web pages on Florence (Firenze) for KnowYourTrip.com.  It brought back a lot of memories – and sensibilities.  Traveling to Italy isn’t like going to the seacoast in the UK or the USA.  You don’t just put your luggage in the boot, drive, arrive, park, and go.  It just doesn’t work that way in Italy.

I flew there on a GO Airline bargain flight from Stanstead Airport, north of London.  I deplaned and entered the world as Italians present it.  Chaos in the terminal, chatter on the bus, and scooter madness in Florence.  Italians flailing about, but rhythmic and energized like a Maestro conducting a symphony.

I forded the chaos and made my way to my hotel – thanks to pre-planning – made my way up to my room and took a breath.  Problem was I could still hear the symphony outside – with the window shut!

I spent the next couple days exploring the Queen of the Renaissance a little dazed by the frenetic energy Italians generated between the gaps in tourists.  It’s a city that has it all, history, past glory, beauty, iconic food and wine, world class shopping – and Italians.

After the raucous joy of Firenze, I headed up to the Tuscan foothills just outside of Florence to my next accommodation – and peaceful refuge – La Doccia.  La Doccia is a meticulously restored farm that is laying on a west facing slope of the Chianti foothills.  The hosts are British Ex-pats that left London to run a bit of Italy.

Directions to La Doccia

Edward Mayhew and his son Rupert are the Anglo Hosts who are a wealth of information on Tuscany and Italian life.  They run a tight and tidy establishment catering to whatever stay you need to have.  I needed rest, relaxation, Italian life education, fed some good local food, washed down with some fine Chianti.  This was the place I should have started my trip.  I would have been ready to absorb more of Florence with my Edward Mayhew’s cramming course of Italian life.

When I headed back to Florence, I was armed with knowledge.  So began my immersion into the love affair I have with Italy and their culture.  I wish I had left Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport and headed up to La Doccia first.  So, consider a first accommodation that is part cultural immersion, part relaxation, and part familiar.

Good Tripping,

Carter