Continuing my visit to Lago d’Iseo, Italy . . .

This is the view I had when I pulled back the curtains.  Appearing to float in Lago d’Iseo, surrounded on both sides by mountains, is St. Paolo’s Island.  It’s a private island with a palace that was on a sacked former monastery.

Since my room had a kitchette, I had a quick breakfast in my room of dried store-bought pastries and coffee.  I walked 50 meters to the tiny ferry dock and grabbed the passenger ferry from Sensole (it was now running) to the largest village on Monte Isola, Peschiera Maraglio.  I didn’t see a single tourist, only locals.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I ferried back to Sulzano to get my car to take in more of the views around the lake.  My ultimate destination was to see the Piramidis or “Fairies of the Forest”, adjacent to the tiny foothill village of Cislano, above the northeastern shore.  It did not disappoint.

Piramidi are limestone pinnacles that are holding up boulders.  Erosion has found a way to perfectly support and balance the rocks.  It is an eerie sight.  It looked like it might have inspired Roger Dean, the fantasy artist, famous for the band, Yes’, album covers.

In the village Cislano I felt like I had traveled back in time.  Smoke was coming out of chimneys in the modest terracotta tile topped houses.  A few were vacant, crumbled, and overgrown with weeds.  There was a tiny church, St. George’s, which overlooked the lake and mountains, doors were wide open allowing access to view walls adorned with medieval frescoes.  It was as simple as the village.

I was far away from the hustle and bustle of the industrialized fashion and design mecca of Milan.  I felt like this was so much of what Italy is about.  After driving around the lake for a couple more hours, I drove back to Sulzano to park my car and then ferry back to Monte Isola.  As we ferried into Peschiera Maraglio, I spotted the fish drying off a balcony.   I disembarked to purchase my usual Christmas ornament momento and a few post cards in a tiny gift shop.  I grabbed the next ferry back to the Residence Vittoria and took this picture of the facility from the water.

Later on, at dinner, in the very vacant and quiet restaurant in the Residence Vittoria, the waiter told me that the fish was caught and dried locally.  My mind immediately went back to that image of the hanging fish.

I felt that this experience worked for me and it was what travel was all about, surprises, native people with intact cultures and traditions, virtually untouched scenery, and a slower way of life.

The next day, I walked the 7 km (4.34 miles) pathway the meanders the perimeter of Monte Isola through the tiny villages.  Still no cars, but plenty of stones houses, olive trees, grapevines, strolling villagers, domesticated animals, and always spectacular vistas. The highest point of Monte Isola, 600 metres (almost 2000ft) above sea level is topped by Madonna della Ceriola shrine, of course!  The small Church dates from the 16^th century.  Pre-dating the shrine, near the village of Menzino, is the Martinengo Castle dating from the 15^th century.

The air was fresh and invigorating.  I slept well that night.

The next morning, after a very peaceful, quiet night, I work up refreshed and relaxed, and sorry that I had to leave so soon.  It isn’t surprising that one of the names of the villages is Cure.  It worked.  I slowly packed, every few minutes pausing to look out at the view one more time in hopes of burning the image in my memory banks.  It’s been there since.

I left Monte Isola having made one of life’s biggest decisions.  I decided that this is where I want my ashes to be spread when I’m deceased.  A few months later when I returned to Seattle I met with my estate attorney.  We added a provision to my will that my ashes will be spread in Lago d’Iseo, off Monte Isola, with instructions for my executor to make the trip.  Lucky partner or friend.

I happy to say that ten years later – to the day, I contacted the hotel and made a reservation for a return visit to Residence Vittoria this June.  I know it can’t be the same because it will be high season.  I take comfort in knowing that I will be surrounded, almost exclusively by Italians, because tourists are too distracted by the much larger Lakes; Como, Maggiore, and Garda.  More about that trip later . . .

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Hey Trippers,

I know when you think of going to Italy, probably Rome, Florence, Venice, and Naples are at the top of your list.  That’s rightfully so.  However, there is an alternative to those heavily touristed destinations; Trieste.

First a little background.  A dear friend of mine, Rafaella, from my days living in London, is a wonderful and sweet Italian woman.  (Check back to these pages for the launch date of her delicious line of chocolates)  She was raised in Trieste and her family still lives there.  Rafaella always told me that Trieste was a delightful secret to be discovered in Italy.  So, during my trip to Europe last May I was determined to make it there.  Raffaella provided me with some valuable information of what to see while visiting Trieste.

I landed in Munich to pick up a car and headed there with just one stop in Salzburg, Austria.  The drive from Salzburg and Austrian Alps through the Italian Carnic Alps and down to the flat Veneto plain was spectacular.

The stretch from Salzburg to Trieste was about 5 ½ hours drive including rest stops.  Keep in mind, that I was maintaining quite a clip in the new car.  Unfortunately, other than Salzburg, I had no time to hang out in the Alps on this trip.  My hope had been to visit Slovenia and Croatia too because the three countries meet there.  I intended to cross the border from Italy into the Istrian Peninsula in Croatia but my car insurance wouldn’t allow me to enter Croatia at all.  Next trip. . . .

Even though I knew Trieste was tucked away in that little corner along the Adriatic Sea, I didn’t expect the dramatic entrance to the city from the inner coastal “Carso” Kras plateau on which the Autostrada flows along.  After exiting the Autostrada, one descends on switch backs (reminded me of Monaco) down into the city.  Despite having a population of about 220,000 inhabitants, it seems like it should have more.  It’s densely packed from the shores of the Adriatic Sea up to the coastal mountains and the plain beyond.

I found it to be much like other large Italian cities, a bit frenetic, massive piazzas, a medieval castle, grand monuments, and plenty of al fresco dining.  Like other northern Italians, the locals seemed a little more restrained than southern Italians.

I booked and pre-paid Hotel San Giusto (A Best Western), a 3 star accommodation, just a few days in advance.  Surprisingly, hotel rates in Trieste were expensive, given that it rates much lower on the tourist demand totem pole.  Overall, for a city this size, there were not a lot of properties to choose from.  (I heard its a very popular destination for the nearby land-locked Slovenians)  The nearer the water, the higher the rate.  Hotel Giusto was moderately priced @ €98.00 ($137.00) per night, had great service, air conditioning, a friendly and helpful front desk, free in-room internet (password from front desk) an extensive breakfast buffet (included in the price), and a safe, below-the-hotel secure parking garage @ €16.00 ($22.30) per night.  There was no view for that price and I just wanted quiet and comfortable.  It was located uptown and had me concerned about the distance to the waterfront.  That concern was soon put to rest as a bus left from a few feet from the door of my hotel right down to the waterfront.

Trieste has a Austro-Hapsburg heritage, which not only means grand buildings but excellent restaurants and pastries.  We found consistently excellent pasticcerias with a variety of different sandwiches and baked goods for inexpensive and memorable meals on the go.

I kept the car parked and bought public transport day passes for €3.50 per day.  It’s easy to get around and locals are helpful.  There was not much English but enough to keep things going smoothly.

I had an good ( 8 out 10 rating) al fresco meal at “al barattolo” on Trieste’s Canal Grande.

The restaurant had nice views along the Grand Canal and excellent focaccia!  Usually, the bread in Italy is the most disappointing part of my meal but theirs was special.  My “Verdura alla Piastra” (grilled seasonal vegetables) for €9.20($) with mayonaise dipping sauce was very good.  The “Pizza con Bufala Mozzarella” €8.40 ($)was not what was hoped for but was enjoyed.  Remember, restaurants in Italy charge a “copertino”, cover charge, of around €2.00 ($) per person.

I stopped by Illy Café because the international company started in Trieste some 75 years ago.  It’s decor was ultra-modern.  I had expected a more traditional Italian Espresso Bar.  I enjoyed my espresso but have had better.  They have a Dark Roast Whole Bean Blend, Nero, that is available only at this store and nowhere else in the world.

The Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia is on the Adriatic Water front and is surrounded by 18th and 19th century grand palazzos; Stratti, Modello, Pitteri, and “Vanoli”.

You’ll find the Official Tourist Office of Trieste there in the Palazzo del Municipio (Town Hall), behind the fountain.

The locals hang out along the waterfront to watch the sunset.

Sitting on the Molo Audace watching the sunset and then turning around to see the colors on the Palazzos lining the Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia was one of those moments.  Rafaella told me that it is tradition to watch the sun hit the water as it sets.  At that moment, look for the green spot and if you see it you will have eternal happiness.  I love that!

The next day, I walked from my hotel down hill to the Castello di San Giusto (1470 – 1630) – entrance €5.00 ($7.00).

It’s a simple but dominant structure overlooking the city.  You have a 360° view from its ramparts.

There are Roman ruins in the Piazza di Cattedrale, a grand statue (Caduati Monument), an armory museum (in the Castello), and the Castello has a few rooms with period decor.  The Castello is adjacent to the modest but none-the-less beautiful Cattedrale di San Giusto (14th century).

Have a seat in a pew and watch just how much this church means to the locals.

From there I zig-zagged my way down to the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre from the 1st century.

It’s quite intact considering and right across the Trieste Police Headquarters.  You can’t go in it, just have your picture taken in front of it with the other tourists.

I took a bus from Piazza Oberdan to the lovely Castello di Miramare in the Parco di Miramare.

It’s a beautiful seaside castle, adjacent to beautiful gardens, on the sparkling Adriatic, and has a fascinating tragic history.

Note: make sure you ask the bus driver for the exact stop.  I wasn’t the only one confused.

From there I walked along the “Barcolo” back towards town.

It’s a feast of sunbathing bodies lining the rocky shore along the blue green Adriatic Sea.  There is Ostello Tergeste ( Hostel) that is a must for those on a budget.  What a location!

I grabbed a bus back to Piazza Oberdan and picked up the Tram di Opicina (circa 1902 Tram/Funicular/Rack Railway) up to the “Carso” Kras top town of Opicina.

The fare was covered in my Transportation Day Pass.  It was worth the ride.

I will post the video on You Tube soon and link it to the blog.  The tram climbs the mountainside to the town of Opicina on the plateau above.

Because Venice and the Veneto was calling, I decided to pass on the Grotta Gigante. It’s one of the many caves in the “Carso” or Kras (coastal limestone mountain plateau).  Another reason I decided to move on was because somehow spelunking didn’t feel very Italian at the time.  I’ll visit this cavern next time because it is one of the largest you can go into in the world.

I’ll be adding Trieste as a Know Your Trip Destination city as we build the website.  I intend to go back and use Trieste as a base to tour the Istrian Peninsula.  Next time I will use a rental car instead of a purchased one.

Happy Tripping,

Carter

As you’ll find out, as a Trip-er, Italy has always been my favorite travel destination.  There are many places I may love certain aspects of more but for overall holiday satisfaction – Italy does it – with Spain a close second.  The history, the food, the services, and above all the people are a great combination that is hard to beat.

While touring Italy, there’s one simple thing that brings my whole being into a satisfying blisssssssss.  That one thing is gelato.  I have a scoop or two everyday.  It’s just better than ice cream!  The flavors are rich and don’t taste artificial.  The vendors take pride in the craftsmanship and presentation of their flavors.  The consistency is a bit like melted ice cream – creamy and smooth.  

I take my touring seriously, almost as serious as my food.  My days are long and strenuous because my favorite mode of travel is my feet.  A couple of scoops of gelati mid-afternoon gives me the welcome boost in energy and comfort.  I just make sure  I don’t enjoy it at night after dinner because I know I’ll be wearing it and it’ll slow me down the next day.  Dinner time in Italy is quite late and something that high in calories before bed is not the best for a Tripper.

I have been in Italian Semifreddo Bliss as well.  It translates into “half frozen”.  I had it fresh scooped several years ago while touring Milan.  (I’ll research my journal notes for the exact spot if someone wants)  Semifreddo has the consistency of half-frozen whipped cream meets custard.  During all my subsequent trips to Italy I have not run into fresh semifreddo again.  I have seen a few frozen balls of semifreddo – it just couldn’t possibly be as good as fresh.

Rome has the Gelato Mecca –  Giolitti’s, the original Gelateria Opened in 1900 (1909 on he building) – the best in Rome and you will measure all gelato you eat in future against it. Via Uffici del Vicario 40, Rome, Italy 00186 · PH 06-6991243 And who can complain about scoopers in military style uniforms.  You’ll be saluting after your first bite!

So, on your next trip to Italy, find yourself in Gelato Bliss and if you’re really fortunate, semifreddo bliss. Yum!