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Continuing my visit to Lago d’Iseo, Italy . . .

This is the view I had when I pulled back the curtains.  Appearing to float in Lago d’Iseo, surrounded on both sides by mountains, is St. Paolo’s Island.  It’s a private island with a palace that was on a sacked former monastery.

Since my room had a kitchette, I had a quick breakfast in my room of dried store-bought pastries and coffee.  I walked 50 meters to the tiny ferry dock and grabbed the passenger ferry from Sensole (it was now running) to the largest village on Monte Isola, Peschiera Maraglio.  I didn’t see a single tourist, only locals.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I ferried back to Sulzano to get my car to take in more of the views around the lake.  My ultimate destination was to see the Piramidis or “Fairies of the Forest”, adjacent to the tiny foothill village of Cislano, above the northeastern shore.  It did not disappoint.

Piramidi are limestone pinnacles that are holding up boulders.  Erosion has found a way to perfectly support and balance the rocks.  It is an eerie sight.  It looked like it might have inspired Roger Dean, the fantasy artist, famous for the band, Yes’, album covers.

In the village Cislano I felt like I had traveled back in time.  Smoke was coming out of chimneys in the modest terracotta tile topped houses.  A few were vacant, crumbled, and overgrown with weeds.  There was a tiny church, St. George’s, which overlooked the lake and mountains, doors were wide open allowing access to view walls adorned with medieval frescoes.  It was as simple as the village.

I was far away from the hustle and bustle of the industrialized fashion and design mecca of Milan.  I felt like this was so much of what Italy is about.  After driving around the lake for a couple more hours, I drove back to Sulzano to park my car and then ferry back to Monte Isola.  As we ferried into Peschiera Maraglio, I spotted the fish drying off a balcony.   I disembarked to purchase my usual Christmas ornament momento and a few post cards in a tiny gift shop.  I grabbed the next ferry back to the Residence Vittoria and took this picture of the facility from the water.

Later on, at dinner, in the very vacant and quiet restaurant in the Residence Vittoria, the waiter told me that the fish was caught and dried locally.  My mind immediately went back to that image of the hanging fish.

I felt that this experience worked for me and it was what travel was all about, surprises, native people with intact cultures and traditions, virtually untouched scenery, and a slower way of life.

The next day, I walked the 7 km (4.34 miles) pathway the meanders the perimeter of Monte Isola through the tiny villages.  Still no cars, but plenty of stones houses, olive trees, grapevines, strolling villagers, domesticated animals, and always spectacular vistas. The highest point of Monte Isola, 600 metres (almost 2000ft) above sea level is topped by Madonna della Ceriola shrine, of course!  The small Church dates from the 16^th century.  Pre-dating the shrine, near the village of Menzino, is the Martinengo Castle dating from the 15^th century.

The air was fresh and invigorating.  I slept well that night.

The next morning, after a very peaceful, quiet night, I work up refreshed and relaxed, and sorry that I had to leave so soon.  It isn’t surprising that one of the names of the villages is Cure.  It worked.  I slowly packed, every few minutes pausing to look out at the view one more time in hopes of burning the image in my memory banks.  It’s been there since.

I left Monte Isola having made one of life’s biggest decisions.  I decided that this is where I want my ashes to be spread when I’m deceased.  A few months later when I returned to Seattle I met with my estate attorney.  We added a provision to my will that my ashes will be spread in Lago d’Iseo, off Monte Isola, with instructions for my executor to make the trip.  Lucky partner or friend.

I happy to say that ten years later – to the day, I contacted the hotel and made a reservation for a return visit to Residence Vittoria this June.  I know it can’t be the same because it will be high season.  I take comfort in knowing that I will be surrounded, almost exclusively by Italians, because tourists are too distracted by the much larger Lakes; Como, Maggiore, and Garda.  More about that trip later . . .

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Years ago, on one of my first trips to Italy, I learned one of my first travel lessons and one of my most magical memories rolled into one.

I flew from London to Milan using miles on British Midlands Airlines.  I decided to focus on the Lombardy Region.  People may beg to differ, but there wasn’t enough to see in the industrial city of Milan itself to warrant spending a week there, especially at my pace.  So, I planned to rent a car and drive north through the Franciacorte Wine Region to the lakes region at the foot of the Italian Alps.

I did the tourist circuit in Milan (short shrift here); Santa Maria delle Grazie and Leonardo d’Vinci’s “The Last Supper”, Milan Duomo, Galeria Vittorio Emanuele II, La Scala Theatre, Fashion Houses, Sforzesco Castle, San Satiro, San Lorenzo Maggiore, and a Gelateria serving the best damned Semi-Fredo ever.  I skipped the Pirelli Building (you can see it from most anywhere) and Civico Museo d’Arte Contemporanca (Contemporary Art Museum)

I picked up my rental car and headed north to Lago d’Iseo.  I chose this lake as opposed to the much more popular and larger Lake Como and Lake Garda because I was told it was “locals only”.  I also soon learned what “off season” truly meant in Italy resort areas.

By the time I ascended through the vineyards of Franciacorta with the Alps in the distance, the sun started to set.  Fortunately, I had pre-booked (via FAX) accommodation on Lago d’Iseo (via FAX in those days) and thus had a room waiting.  I arrived in the tiny lakeside village of Sulzano and drove around looking for my hotel, Residence Vittoria.  No sign of the hotel anywhere.  So, I decided to park and go to an espresso bar and ask.  In my broken Italian and the bar keep’s non-English Italian, I asked where the hotel was and he pointed across the water.  I explained that I would never have booked a hotel on an island – without knowing.  Wouldn’t I have been told such a thing?  Oh, that’s right – I didn’t ask.  Then, arms flailing and with a panic look on his face, he explained that the only way to get there was by a ferryboat.  Ferry!  And the last one was leaving in a few minutes!  But what about my car?!?!  It was a passenger ferry only!  He motioned me to park in a lot across the road from the village and leave money in a box.  I ran to my car and grabbed my luggage, dropped money in the box, and RAN to the ferry dock.  Thank god for wheeled luggage!  I hopped on the ferry (a small boat) and we motored off into the dark toward the distant lights across the lake.  Mind you, I was still very confused where I was going.

I asked the ferry driver (it was a very small passenger boat) where the hotel was and he explained that it was in the village on Sensole and that dock was now closed. So, he was dropping me off at the Porto (dock) at Peschiera Maraglio (the largest village on the Island).  It was now very cold as we skimmed across the black water.  There were a few elderly people hanging out in chairs by the dock and there were lines of fish drying in the few illuminated rickety buildings.

I asked one of the oldies in my broken Italian where my hotel was.  I made out the name “Sensole” and the rest was an arm gesture pointing to a path leading into the dark.  With no choice, I walked into the darkness following the unlit path.  The stone lined path soon turned into a gravel mud path.  Great for luggage wheels!  Just as I adjusted, the path changed to mud!  Pulling became squishy yanking.  After about 20 minutes, the path turned back to gravel and then road.

I came upon the hotel, which was actually sizable, but it was unlit – and dark.  I saw the light around the side, found a door, and knocked on it – loudly.  A French and Italian speaking gent answered the door.  He was the chef in the kitchen and said he was the only one there.  I told him we had a reservation and he said he would call the owner who was at home.  Gratefully, he led me into the dining room, turned on the lights, and offered me a beer.  He left me to make the call and came back to tell me that the owner was coming to check us in.  It would be a while because he was coming by boat.

Two Peroni beers later, the owner arrived, spoke no English, and was gracious despite the inconvenience.  He led to our room in what appeared to be a completely empty hotel.  I turned on the lights and the heater, and found a spacious room.  I looked out the window to see shore lights in the distance.   I unpacked a bit and collapsed in bed.  I didn’t even notice the cold.

The next morning, I woke up and looked out the window to get my bearings to see where the heck I was.  I pulled back the threadbare drapes to find one of the most spectacular sights of my life . . . . Monte Isola.

More later . . . .

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Part 3 in a series of how I traveled to Europe and back for three weeks on a budget.

Hey Trippers,

Today I will focus on using hotel points, awards, how to acquire them, and when to redeem them.  Hotel costs regularly exceed airfare and transportation costs on any holiday.  This is an important way to reduce your trip overhead.

Disclaimer: I DO NOT ENDORSE ANY PRODUCT BELOW.  I am using them only as an example.

Join a Rewards Program and CHOOSE CAREFULLY – Choose a reward program and think it through.  Personally, I keep my hotel choices within hotel groupings that are in only two programs.  I do have memberships in a few other programs but focus on Hilton Honors and Starwood Preferred Guest.  For the most part, these two programs fulfill my needs domestically and internationally.  (I fill in the gaps with local hotels that are culturally significant at reasonable rates)  Both Award Programs have a spectrum of accommodation rates and property quality from BUDGET to LUXURY, which is what you want the programs you choose to have.

Hotel Reward Program Credit Cards – Sign up for a Hotel Rewards Credit Card (See programs below) for a group of hotels that have a broad spectrum of accommodation classes.  Personally, I have a Hilton Honors American Express and a Starwood Preferred Guest American Express.  Some of the credit cards charge yearly fees and some don’t.  Makes sure you confirm the one you use.  DO NOT do this if you cannot pay your credit card balance off in its entirety every month (interest rates approach loan shark rates) or if you are prone to be late paying bills (penalty fees are ridiculously high).

Point Acquisition – The programs will award you anywhere between 10 points and 1 point per dollar depending on what you spend your credit card on; the hotels themselves, gas stations, credit cards, on-line malls, or grocery stores.   You can usually acquire the most points for actually paying for a hotel stay and dining on the property.

Pay Low Redeem High - The trick is when it is on your dollar; you stay in one of their accommodations as cheaply as possible to earn points.  When you go away on personal business, visiting Grandma, or other non-holiday hotel stays, that’s when you stay in a modest accommodation within the hotel reward program.  Then, during the dream trip or holiday stay in the more expensive or popular hotels using points.  For instance, when on non-holiday accommodation stays; stay at a Hampton Inn or Hilton Garden Inn and when on your dream trip stay at the Hilton or Conrad using points.

On my trip, while in England and Austria, I paid to stay at Hilton Hotels (2 – 3 Star) at great rates (earning points and stays).  I found and booked the Hilton Hotels in England on-line and booked the Innsbruck Hilton last minute (most stays included breakfast).  The England Hilton stays ranged between £69.00 (US$113.00) in Bromsgrove, Midlands, £89.00 (US$146.00) in London, and Innsbruck, Austria, €89.00 (US$127.00) per night.  Both hotels included breakfast as part of the room rate.  In London, my Hilton Honors status enabled me to get a room upgrade and breakfast included.  I used Starwood Preferred Guest points to stay in a Venice 5 Star Hotel.  I redeemed points for my 5-night stay at The Europa and Regina Hotel on the Grande Canal.  The Premium Deluxe Room I stayed in was €380.00 (US$540.00) per night when booked on-line in advance.  The breakfast buffet was €52.00 (US$74.00) per person and I used points for that – only once!  Overeating is no way to start a busy day of exploring.

Double Dipping - This is a good way to acquire double points.  When staying at an accommodation, use the same Reward Program Credit Card to pay for your stay.  Many of the hotel chains also award a block of air miles for each stay (one or more nights consecutively).  Many Rental Car Companies also award hotel points.  Check before you book.

Advance Booking - Redeeming points for hotel stays has to be done WELL IN ADVANCE.  The programs are popular!  There are only so many rooms they set aside for point redemption.  Peak times at popular hotels have the fewest point redemption rooms available.

Optimizing Redemption – Starwood Preferred Guest is the only program offering “Free Night Awards”.  This aspect awards you a fifth night free with every four nights you book with award points.  There is limited availability, so book ASAP.

Remember to optimize the points you acquire when making large purchases; furniture, cars, electronics (including computers), home repairs, landscaping, etc.  Negotiate as a part or all of payment to be able to use a credit card.  When I purchased my last car, I negotiated as a part of the deal to charge $10,000.00 on my Starwood Preferred Guest Credit Card.  That is a 5 night stay on many of their  properties.

Membership or Status Levels – Within a particular Reward Program, if you stay enough times and or acquire enough points (within a calendar year) your status within the program will get you additional perks.  Example: Hilton Honors has (lowest to highest) Blue, Silver VIP, Gold VIP, and Diamond VIP. Depending on property and availability, Gold VIP and Diamond VIP will get you an upgrade to the Executive Lounge Floor, which (depending on property) will afford you complimentary breakfast, snacks, and drinks throughout the day and evening.

Here’s a list of hotels and their programs;

Starwood Preferred Guest Program – Hotels include: Meridien, Four Points by Sheraton, Westin, W Hotels, St. Regis, Sheraton, aloft, and the Luxury Collection

Hilton Honors – Hilton, Conrad, DoubleTree, Embassy Suites, Hampton Inn, Hilton Garden Inn, Homewood Suites, The Waldorf Astoria Collection, and Home2 Suites

Priority Club Rewards – Holiday Inn, Holiday Inn Express, Crowne Plaza, Hotel Indigo, Staybridge Suites, and Candlewood Suites

Wyndham Rewards – Wyndham, Ramada, Days Inn, Super 8, Wingate, Baymont Ins & Suites, Howard Johnson, Travelodge, Knights Inn, Microtel, and Hawthorn.

Marriott Rewards – Marriott, JW Marriott, Renaissance, Courtyard, Residence Inn, SpringHill Suites, and Fairfield Inn.

Choice Privileges –    Comfort Inn, Comfort Suites, Quality, Clarion, Cambria Suites, Main Stay Suites, Suburban, EconoLodge, Rodeway Inn, and Ascend Collection

Best Western Rewards – (Earn Points or Air Miles) Good at over 4000 Best Western Hotels in 80 countries.

Hyatt Gold Passport – Hyatt, Hyatt Place, and Hyatt Summerfield Suites

This should be a good start for you.  I know it can be complicated at times.  But once you get the hang of it, it’ll make sense.  There is more Hotel Reward Programs listed in the KNOW YOUR BUDGET download on the KNOW YOUR TRIP HOME PAGE.

Happy Point Acquisition,

Carter

Hey Trippers,

Here’s the itinerary of my latest trip to Europe in May.  It was an intense and focused affair (99% of trips are) because I was gathering info for the Know Your Trip Website.

My itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Fly into London, UK – drove to Birmingham
Day 2: Drove to Liverpool
Day 3: Drove to Birmingham
Day 4: Drove to Stratford-Upon-Avon – Drove to London (gave up car)
Day 5: London (public transport)
Day 6: London (public transport)
Day 7: London (public transport)
Day 8: London – Munich – (picked up car) drove to Salzburg, Austria
Day 9: Salzburg, Austria –  drove to Trieste, Italy (parked car)
Day 10: Trieste, Italy (public transport)
Day 11: Trieste, Italy – drove to Venice, Italy (parked car for entire Venice stay)
Day 12: Venice, Italy (public transport)
Day 13: Venice, Italy (public transport)
Day 14: Venice, Italy (public transport)
Day 15: Venice, Italy (public transport)
Day 16: Venice, Italy (public transport) –  drove to Verona, Italy
Day 17: Verona, Italy – drove to Lake Garda – drove to Innsbruck, Austria
Day 18: Innsbruck, Austria – drove to Munich, Germany (gave up car)
Day 19: Munich, Germany (public transport)
Day 20: Munich, Germany (public transport) – flew to Frankfurt, Germany (public transport)
Day 21: Frankfurt, Germany – flew to Seattle, USA

I’m printing this because I want to assure everyone that I gather virtually all my information.  I use other experienced travelers and on-the-ground research whose opinions I trust for any gaps.

When I hand out travel advice and suggestions, it is based on personal experience.  I live what I preach because meaningful, enjoyable travel can be done on a BUDGET.  Sometimes I do splurge because I want to experience that particular part of a trip or destination.  Sometimes I regret it but most of the time I don’t.

When I endorse an attraction or business, I pay my way and get nothing for free (unless its free for you too).

I rent cars and/or use public transport.  I use air miles and/or pay fares.  I pay for accommodation and/or use points.  I pay when I dine everywhere.  No freebees there.  Nothing is really free.

There are many destinations that won’t make it on to the Know Your Trip website for quite sometime because I don’t believe they can be done on a BUDGET, are over-touristed, too dangerous, or Trippers just won’t find the place very enjoyable.

My subsequent blog posts will break down parts of the above trip to show you where I found savings and where I could have done better.  Traveling is not only a passion for me but I learning experience – every trip.  My last blog post was a segment of that trip.  I’ll start the flow of information and experiences tomorrow . . . .

Happy Tripping,

Carter

Hey Trippers,

I know when you think of going to Italy, probably Rome, Florence, Venice, and Naples are at the top of your list.  That’s rightfully so.  However, there is an alternative to those heavily touristed destinations; Trieste.

First a little background.  A dear friend of mine, Rafaella, from my days living in London, is a wonderful and sweet Italian woman.  (Check back to these pages for the launch date of her delicious line of chocolates)  She was raised in Trieste and her family still lives there.  Rafaella always told me that Trieste was a delightful secret to be discovered in Italy.  So, during my trip to Europe last May I was determined to make it there.  Raffaella provided me with some valuable information of what to see while visiting Trieste.

I landed in Munich to pick up a car and headed there with just one stop in Salzburg, Austria.  The drive from Salzburg and Austrian Alps through the Italian Carnic Alps and down to the flat Veneto plain was spectacular.

The stretch from Salzburg to Trieste was about 5 ½ hours drive including rest stops.  Keep in mind, that I was maintaining quite a clip in the new car.  Unfortunately, other than Salzburg, I had no time to hang out in the Alps on this trip.  My hope had been to visit Slovenia and Croatia too because the three countries meet there.  I intended to cross the border from Italy into the Istrian Peninsula in Croatia but my car insurance wouldn’t allow me to enter Croatia at all.  Next trip. . . .

Even though I knew Trieste was tucked away in that little corner along the Adriatic Sea, I didn’t expect the dramatic entrance to the city from the inner coastal “Carso” Kras plateau on which the Autostrada flows along.  After exiting the Autostrada, one descends on switch backs (reminded me of Monaco) down into the city.  Despite having a population of about 220,000 inhabitants, it seems like it should have more.  It’s densely packed from the shores of the Adriatic Sea up to the coastal mountains and the plain beyond.

I found it to be much like other large Italian cities, a bit frenetic, massive piazzas, a medieval castle, grand monuments, and plenty of al fresco dining.  Like other northern Italians, the locals seemed a little more restrained than southern Italians.

I booked and pre-paid Hotel San Giusto (A Best Western), a 3 star accommodation, just a few days in advance.  Surprisingly, hotel rates in Trieste were expensive, given that it rates much lower on the tourist demand totem pole.  Overall, for a city this size, there were not a lot of properties to choose from.  (I heard its a very popular destination for the nearby land-locked Slovenians)  The nearer the water, the higher the rate.  Hotel Giusto was moderately priced @ €98.00 ($137.00) per night, had great service, air conditioning, a friendly and helpful front desk, free in-room internet (password from front desk) an extensive breakfast buffet (included in the price), and a safe, below-the-hotel secure parking garage @ €16.00 ($22.30) per night.  There was no view for that price and I just wanted quiet and comfortable.  It was located uptown and had me concerned about the distance to the waterfront.  That concern was soon put to rest as a bus left from a few feet from the door of my hotel right down to the waterfront.

Trieste has a Austro-Hapsburg heritage, which not only means grand buildings but excellent restaurants and pastries.  We found consistently excellent pasticcerias with a variety of different sandwiches and baked goods for inexpensive and memorable meals on the go.

I kept the car parked and bought public transport day passes for €3.50 per day.  It’s easy to get around and locals are helpful.  There was not much English but enough to keep things going smoothly.

I had an good ( 8 out 10 rating) al fresco meal at “al barattolo” on Trieste’s Canal Grande.

The restaurant had nice views along the Grand Canal and excellent focaccia!  Usually, the bread in Italy is the most disappointing part of my meal but theirs was special.  My “Verdura alla Piastra” (grilled seasonal vegetables) for €9.20($) with mayonaise dipping sauce was very good.  The “Pizza con Bufala Mozzarella” €8.40 ($)was not what was hoped for but was enjoyed.  Remember, restaurants in Italy charge a “copertino”, cover charge, of around €2.00 ($) per person.

I stopped by Illy Café because the international company started in Trieste some 75 years ago.  It’s decor was ultra-modern.  I had expected a more traditional Italian Espresso Bar.  I enjoyed my espresso but have had better.  They have a Dark Roast Whole Bean Blend, Nero, that is available only at this store and nowhere else in the world.

The Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia is on the Adriatic Water front and is surrounded by 18th and 19th century grand palazzos; Stratti, Modello, Pitteri, and “Vanoli”.

You’ll find the Official Tourist Office of Trieste there in the Palazzo del Municipio (Town Hall), behind the fountain.

The locals hang out along the waterfront to watch the sunset.

Sitting on the Molo Audace watching the sunset and then turning around to see the colors on the Palazzos lining the Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia was one of those moments.  Rafaella told me that it is tradition to watch the sun hit the water as it sets.  At that moment, look for the green spot and if you see it you will have eternal happiness.  I love that!

The next day, I walked from my hotel down hill to the Castello di San Giusto (1470 – 1630) – entrance €5.00 ($7.00).

It’s a simple but dominant structure overlooking the city.  You have a 360° view from its ramparts.

There are Roman ruins in the Piazza di Cattedrale, a grand statue (Caduati Monument), an armory museum (in the Castello), and the Castello has a few rooms with period decor.  The Castello is adjacent to the modest but none-the-less beautiful Cattedrale di San Giusto (14th century).

Have a seat in a pew and watch just how much this church means to the locals.

From there I zig-zagged my way down to the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre from the 1st century.

It’s quite intact considering and right across the Trieste Police Headquarters.  You can’t go in it, just have your picture taken in front of it with the other tourists.

I took a bus from Piazza Oberdan to the lovely Castello di Miramare in the Parco di Miramare.

It’s a beautiful seaside castle, adjacent to beautiful gardens, on the sparkling Adriatic, and has a fascinating tragic history.

Note: make sure you ask the bus driver for the exact stop.  I wasn’t the only one confused.

From there I walked along the “Barcolo” back towards town.

It’s a feast of sunbathing bodies lining the rocky shore along the blue green Adriatic Sea.  There is Ostello Tergeste ( Hostel) that is a must for those on a budget.  What a location!

I grabbed a bus back to Piazza Oberdan and picked up the Tram di Opicina (circa 1902 Tram/Funicular/Rack Railway) up to the “Carso” Kras top town of Opicina.

The fare was covered in my Transportation Day Pass.  It was worth the ride.

I will post the video on You Tube soon and link it to the blog.  The tram climbs the mountainside to the town of Opicina on the plateau above.

Because Venice and the Veneto was calling, I decided to pass on the Grotta Gigante. It’s one of the many caves in the “Carso” or Kras (coastal limestone mountain plateau).  Another reason I decided to move on was because somehow spelunking didn’t feel very Italian at the time.  I’ll visit this cavern next time because it is one of the largest you can go into in the world.

I’ll be adding Trieste as a Know Your Trip Destination city as we build the website.  I intend to go back and use Trieste as a base to tour the Istrian Peninsula.  Next time I will use a rental car instead of a purchased one.

Happy Tripping,

Carter

At the moment, I’m spending all my days writing about Campania and Naples. It’s taken me longer than I thought but there’s not a minute that goes by that I don’t wish I was back there – right now.

I’m not sure if you would fall in love with Naples as much I have. It’s a dirty, polluted, congested, crowded, and at times, a bit dangerous. Just look at the picture above. The buildings all look like they’re running into each other. It has the highest population density in Europe. I experienced the filthiest public bathroom ever – in the Garibaldi Train Station! The taxis and cars are small, beat up affairs. The scooters are like swarming flies and occasionally “accidentally” hook onto a tourist’s purse. But I still love Naples.

Over time, I’ll have to write more about my love of Campania – but today, Naples will give up one of its dirty-little-secrets. The focus of my trip was to visit Pompeii – a city awaken from it’s horribly induced sleep. A city that had been cruelly buried in fire and ash by the always looming Mt Vesuvius. But first, I was told I had to go to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale – The National Archeological Museum. This museum houses most everything that has been recovered from Pompeii during the last 260 years of excavations. I was told it puts what I will see in Pompeii in context. MMMMMMM So, I headed over to the museum. I forded the piazzas (squares) where traffic signs are a mere suggestion. Scooters, and ram-shackled cars about and the smell of the city. By the time I arrived at the museum . . . .

. . . . it was a pink oasis. PINK?!?! How cutting edge. I paid my entrance fee €6.50 ($8.75) and was informed that “the Segreto della Stanza” (secret room) will be opening soon and it has limited hours”. Secret room? This being Italy – I thought gambling? Pole dancing? Sex Shop? Well, yes, but in an ancient way. Ancient way you say? Well, you learn something everyday you travel and that’s one reason I love it so much. At the appointed time, the guard took his key and opened the fancy barred door. It creaked as he swung it open and mumbled in Italian “Soltanto Adulti (Adults only)”. Below, is the first item I was confronted with . . . .

Yikes! This was collected from a house in Pompeii. It stated that every home in Roman times had one of these over there hearth where they baked their bread. It was so the gods would make sure their bread was going to rise while it was baking. How must the women must have felt with that hanging where they cooked. (A few days later when I went to Pompeii – every house had a square indentation where this and all the other ones collected in Museums around the world originally were attached) I turned around and on the wall . . . . .

. . . this would also have hung, ahem, over the Pompeii residence’s oven too. It’s not as, well, prominent as the one above it. Then, the paintings – realistic stuff!!!! Well, if you really need to see it, it’s after the jump – not for kiddies’ eyes and make sure YOURS DON”T GET POKED OUT!

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After writing my latest knowyourtrip.com website destination, I thought I’d share a few observations.  I traveled to Italy on eight different trips.  My last trip to Italy was, a reluctant one, to Venice.  Reluctant you say?  I had heard all the stories: “The canals stink”, “How do they get off charging $12.00 for a cup of coffee”, “the hotels are a rip off and everyone is rude to you”, “the mozzies will eat you alive”, and “it’s so crowded”.  I didn’t want to go, but after the previous seven trips to Italy – that’s pretty much what was left.  So, I listened to the devil on my shoulder and booked a week in January and was ready for the worst . . . .

Venice was one of the – if not THE best trip I’d had to Italy.  It was different.  Venice is like a city turned inside out and in another dimension.  No cars are allowed.  You couldn’t drive while there if you wanted to.  The roads are waterways.  So, getting around is by boat or foot.  Unlike the rest of Italy, there are no scooters.  And no bicycles!

After arriving at Venice’s Marco Polo airport, you have options in how you want to arrive in Venice.  You can take a publicly run Water Bus or a privately run Water Taxi.  I choose the other option, a Land Bus.  You buy your tickets for the bus at the airport kiosk (it’s a tiny airport), board and in 20 minutes you’re dropped off at Piazzale Roma next to the Santa Lucia Train Station. 

Once you arrive at Piazzale Roma, you can walk the maize of pontes (bridges) and fondamentas (canal-side street), board a Water Bus, or hire a Water Taxi to get to your hotel.  I choose to book a hotel within a short walk from Piazzale Roma.  One of my reasons for booking my hotel close to the Piazzale Roma was to be able to easily get on and off the city of islands. I prepaid my hotel to save on the rate.  

I stepped off the bus and it hit me – the smell of pollution – from the oil refinery across the Veneta Lagana (Lagoon) on the mainland and the diesel fueled boat exhaust.  The next thing that hit me was the imposing facade of the 17th century church, San Nicolò da Tolentino across the Rio Nuovo (canal).  What smell? I had left behind anything with wheels (except my luggage) and only heard the low rumble of small boats.

It was a five minute walk to my hotel, Al Sole, a former 14th century Palazzo (palace).I was in a new old world.  The Al Sole was on the Rio del Malcanton (canal), and it was drained and it smelled like rotten eggs and it was during the cold of January.  Imagine the smell the heat and humidity of the summer! HMMMMMMMM

One of the first things I did was walk back to the Piazzale Roma and boarded a Water Bus to cruise the length of the Grand Canal.  The backwards “S” shaped Grand Canal is lined with Palazzo after palazzo and church after church – all designed to impress everyone in the boats – centuries ago – before there was even a thought of cars.  The land based entrances to the palazzos are typically more modest.  

The ride down the Grand Canal was like a renaissance Disney’s “It’s a Small World”, thankfully, without the annoying song.  Only the whirrr of the boats and the ocassional animated conversation is what I heard.  As you navigate around the end of the first wide bend you start seeing the gondolas manned by the famous gondoliers.  Then time to pass under the iconic Ponte Railto (Bridge), round the next bend, and pass under the wooden “temporary for the past 76 years” Ponte Accademia (Bridge).  By the time you pass under the Ponte Accademia, in your sights is the dome of Santa Maria della Salute and it’s baroque exterior.  As the Water Bus exits the Grand Canal, on the left is the Campanile (Bell Tower) San Marco, all 96.8 meters (318 feet) of it.   

The Water Bus stopped at San Marco.  I stepped off into Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square).  With the 15th century light pink colored Palazzo Ducale on the right, the columns of San Marco and San Teodoro rising in front of you, the glistening gold Byzantine domes of the Basilica San Marco (1617AD), the colonnaded Procuratie Vechhie, and the swarming flocks of pigeons- you feel alive.  And the thrill of travel fills your nerve endings.  Without even going into a single building along the Piazza San Marco, you are seeing a square that looks the same today as it has for almost 200 years.  The new old part is the Ala Napoleonica Procuratie Nuovo on the eastern end – built by Napoleon!  If you turn around and leave the square, board the Water Bus, take it back to Piazzale Roma and board the bus back to the airport, and go back home, you will still feel like you had a thrill of a lifetime for years the rest of your life.

But I chose to stay another 6 days and cement the courtship.  Venice in the winter is devoid of tourists and populated by Italians that have taken back their flats.  Dine at a restaurant or stop for an espresso at a bar and listen to only Italian being spoken – that’ll never happen in summer.  There are no lines and there’s no rush.  You can ruminate over every one of Tintoretto’s 50 paintings at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco (1515AD), every piece Peggy Gugenheim’s modern art collection, and sit and count every pigeon in Piazza San Marco while drinking a $12.00 (€8.75) cup of cappuccino at beautiful Cafe Florian (1720AD).  As the sun went down every day and I walked the abandoned narrow alleyways back to the Al Sole, I felt as the Venetians must have felt before the city was discovered by the throngs of tourists.  Venice in the winter belongs on your “must do before I die” list.

Oh, and after two days I didn’t even smell the refinery or the rotten egg smell.  I wonder why . . .

Keep Tripping,

Carter 

Details:

Marco Polo Airport

Land Bus or Water Bus

Water Taxi

Al Sole Hotel

Guggenheim Museum

Basilica San Marco

Cafe Florian

I just finished writing my web pages on Florence (Firenze) for KnowYourTrip.com.  It brought back a lot of memories – and sensibilities.  Traveling to Italy isn’t like going to the seacoast in the UK or the USA.  You don’t just put your luggage in the boot, drive, arrive, park, and go.  It just doesn’t work that way in Italy.

I flew there on a GO Airline bargain flight from Stanstead Airport, north of London.  I deplaned and entered the world as Italians present it.  Chaos in the terminal, chatter on the bus, and scooter madness in Florence.  Italians flailing about, but rhythmic and energized like a Maestro conducting a symphony.

I forded the chaos and made my way to my hotel – thanks to pre-planning – made my way up to my room and took a breath.  Problem was I could still hear the symphony outside – with the window shut!

I spent the next couple days exploring the Queen of the Renaissance a little dazed by the frenetic energy Italians generated between the gaps in tourists.  It’s a city that has it all, history, past glory, beauty, iconic food and wine, world class shopping – and Italians.

After the raucous joy of Firenze, I headed up to the Tuscan foothills just outside of Florence to my next accommodation – and peaceful refuge – La Doccia.  La Doccia is a meticulously restored farm that is laying on a west facing slope of the Chianti foothills.  The hosts are British Ex-pats that left London to run a bit of Italy.

Directions to La Doccia

Edward Mayhew and his son Rupert are the Anglo Hosts who are a wealth of information on Tuscany and Italian life.  They run a tight and tidy establishment catering to whatever stay you need to have.  I needed rest, relaxation, Italian life education, fed some good local food, washed down with some fine Chianti.  This was the place I should have started my trip.  I would have been ready to absorb more of Florence with my Edward Mayhew’s cramming course of Italian life.

When I headed back to Florence, I was armed with knowledge.  So began my immersion into the love affair I have with Italy and their culture.  I wish I had left Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport and headed up to La Doccia first.  So, consider a first accommodation that is part cultural immersion, part relaxation, and part familiar.

Good Tripping,

Carter

Yes, that is a reference to the old Steve Martin Comedy Routine and Short Story “Cruel Shoes”.  You can check out his book here.  I have thought about his routine as I walked miles around France and Italy.  When one is a seasoned Tripper, you learn that your shoes are number one important accessory while exploring.  It can effect most of your day – everyday.  Blisters, corns, calluses, heel pain, calf pain, even back pain, and overall soreness comes to mind.

Most of the historic centers of France and Italy have cobblestones which can be like hiking on Hawaiian lava rock – barefoot.  In Italy, besides older women being allergic to gray hair (that’s for another post), they are slaves to foot fashion.  Sit in a cafe in a piazza on a Sunday and watch the elderly ladies in their fashionable Ferragamo high heels stepping cautiously from cobble to cobble praying they don’t break and ankle.

In Paris, they have a whole other problem and so will you.  The French women are smart enough to wear cute little flat shoes around town like this:

Now, you’re a head of the game if you wear these shoes around cobblestones.  But the Trippers in Paris have a whole other problem: Mutt Mines!  In Paris, the French do not pick up after their pooches.  It just doesn’t happen. You see all these fashionable attired French women walking their cute little dogs but when they walk past and you’re not looking – they’re dropping a Mutt Mine.  So, you have to look down virtually every step you take or – well – MUTT MINE EXPLOSION!  More here. But don’t click here!

I have a list of requirements that a Tripper’s Travel Shoes should meet:

• Break Them In First: Make sure you have already broken them in before you left on your trip.  No trial runs while on your trip!
• Black or Brown: The shoes should be black or brown for versitility, they don’t show dirt or scuffs or mutt mine explosions
• Do NOT Wear White: Do not where white sneakers, running shoes, tennis shoes, nursing shoes EVER – for too many reasons to write.
• Cushioned Shoes: Shoe Manufacturers have come up with dozens of options for fashionable, comfortable, and “foot health” friendly selections.  Find a good line of men’s shoes here.
• Two Pair Limit:  Unless you don’t have a problem with lugging a lot of luggage, you should be able to get by with two pairs – a comfortable dressy pair and a comfortable casual pair of walkers.  If you are an athlete or continue to train while you travel – you can make your second or even a third pair – a pair of running shoes.
• Flip Flops:  This is a gray area.  If you do bring them, you had better be bringing them to go to the beach or take a shower in them.  For your own safety, do not wear them on a city street.  All you’d need is to have someone step on your foot and break crush a toe!

Just for fun, listen to a bit of Steve Martin’s “Cruel Shoes” AFTER THE JUMP . . . . .

Cheers, Carter

(more…)

As you’ll find out, as a Trip-er, Italy has always been my favorite travel destination.  There are many places I may love certain aspects of more but for overall holiday satisfaction – Italy does it – with Spain a close second.  The history, the food, the services, and above all the people are a great combination that is hard to beat.

While touring Italy, there’s one simple thing that brings my whole being into a satisfying blisssssssss.  That one thing is gelato.  I have a scoop or two everyday.  It’s just better than ice cream!  The flavors are rich and don’t taste artificial.  The vendors take pride in the craftsmanship and presentation of their flavors.  The consistency is a bit like melted ice cream – creamy and smooth.  

I take my touring seriously, almost as serious as my food.  My days are long and strenuous because my favorite mode of travel is my feet.  A couple of scoops of gelati mid-afternoon gives me the welcome boost in energy and comfort.  I just make sure  I don’t enjoy it at night after dinner because I know I’ll be wearing it and it’ll slow me down the next day.  Dinner time in Italy is quite late and something that high in calories before bed is not the best for a Tripper.

I have been in Italian Semifreddo Bliss as well.  It translates into “half frozen”.  I had it fresh scooped several years ago while touring Milan.  (I’ll research my journal notes for the exact spot if someone wants)  Semifreddo has the consistency of half-frozen whipped cream meets custard.  During all my subsequent trips to Italy I have not run into fresh semifreddo again.  I have seen a few frozen balls of semifreddo – it just couldn’t possibly be as good as fresh.

Rome has the Gelato Mecca –  Giolitti’s, the original Gelateria Opened in 1900 (1909 on he building) – the best in Rome and you will measure all gelato you eat in future against it. Via Uffici del Vicario 40, Rome, Italy 00186 · PH 06-6991243 And who can complain about scoopers in military style uniforms.  You’ll be saluting after your first bite!

So, on your next trip to Italy, find yourself in Gelato Bliss and if you’re really fortunate, semifreddo bliss. Yum!