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Continuing my visit to Lago d’Iseo, Italy . . .

This is the view I had when I pulled back the curtains.  Appearing to float in Lago d’Iseo, surrounded on both sides by mountains, is St. Paolo’s Island.  It’s a private island with a palace that was on a sacked former monastery.

Since my room had a kitchette, I had a quick breakfast in my room of dried store-bought pastries and coffee.  I walked 50 meters to the tiny ferry dock and grabbed the passenger ferry from Sensole (it was now running) to the largest village on Monte Isola, Peschiera Maraglio.  I didn’t see a single tourist, only locals.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

I walked around the lakefront boardwalk and alleys of the little village.  Doors were left open; banter could be heard echoing, and the occasional yapping dog.  I realized there were no cars anywhere to be found.  Only boats, bicycles, and little gas carts.  And there were very few young people.

The Alp run-off filled lake was glassy and calm lit by a sunny clear day – perfect for taking in the Alp-filled views.  Looking north the horizon was outlined with glaciers.

I ferried back to Sulzano to get my car to take in more of the views around the lake.  My ultimate destination was to see the Piramidis or “Fairies of the Forest”, adjacent to the tiny foothill village of Cislano, above the northeastern shore.  It did not disappoint.

Piramidi are limestone pinnacles that are holding up boulders.  Erosion has found a way to perfectly support and balance the rocks.  It is an eerie sight.  It looked like it might have inspired Roger Dean, the fantasy artist, famous for the band, Yes’, album covers.

In the village Cislano I felt like I had traveled back in time.  Smoke was coming out of chimneys in the modest terracotta tile topped houses.  A few were vacant, crumbled, and overgrown with weeds.  There was a tiny church, St. George’s, which overlooked the lake and mountains, doors were wide open allowing access to view walls adorned with medieval frescoes.  It was as simple as the village.

I was far away from the hustle and bustle of the industrialized fashion and design mecca of Milan.  I felt like this was so much of what Italy is about.  After driving around the lake for a couple more hours, I drove back to Sulzano to park my car and then ferry back to Monte Isola.  As we ferried into Peschiera Maraglio, I spotted the fish drying off a balcony.   I disembarked to purchase my usual Christmas ornament momento and a few post cards in a tiny gift shop.  I grabbed the next ferry back to the Residence Vittoria and took this picture of the facility from the water.

Later on, at dinner, in the very vacant and quiet restaurant in the Residence Vittoria, the waiter told me that the fish was caught and dried locally.  My mind immediately went back to that image of the hanging fish.

I felt that this experience worked for me and it was what travel was all about, surprises, native people with intact cultures and traditions, virtually untouched scenery, and a slower way of life.

The next day, I walked the 7 km (4.34 miles) pathway the meanders the perimeter of Monte Isola through the tiny villages.  Still no cars, but plenty of stones houses, olive trees, grapevines, strolling villagers, domesticated animals, and always spectacular vistas. The highest point of Monte Isola, 600 metres (almost 2000ft) above sea level is topped by Madonna della Ceriola shrine, of course!  The small Church dates from the 16^th century.  Pre-dating the shrine, near the village of Menzino, is the Martinengo Castle dating from the 15^th century.

The air was fresh and invigorating.  I slept well that night.

The next morning, after a very peaceful, quiet night, I work up refreshed and relaxed, and sorry that I had to leave so soon.  It isn’t surprising that one of the names of the villages is Cure.  It worked.  I slowly packed, every few minutes pausing to look out at the view one more time in hopes of burning the image in my memory banks.  It’s been there since.

I left Monte Isola having made one of life’s biggest decisions.  I decided that this is where I want my ashes to be spread when I’m deceased.  A few months later when I returned to Seattle I met with my estate attorney.  We added a provision to my will that my ashes will be spread in Lago d’Iseo, off Monte Isola, with instructions for my executor to make the trip.  Lucky partner or friend.

I happy to say that ten years later – to the day, I contacted the hotel and made a reservation for a return visit to Residence Vittoria this June.  I know it can’t be the same because it will be high season.  I take comfort in knowing that I will be surrounded, almost exclusively by Italians, because tourists are too distracted by the much larger Lakes; Como, Maggiore, and Garda.  More about that trip later . . .

Happy Tripping,

Carter

I spent a couple of weeks in Spain on holiday in December 2009.  It was my 6^th trip over there.  With regards to a culture I relish, Spain is right up there with the Italians.   I love, love, love the Spaniards, the history, tourist services, and landscape of that country.  Every trip back has shown me its big secret – diversity.  Just when you think you can pigeonhole them, they show you something 180º from what you thought.

The itinerary of this trip:  In the province of Castilla y León, I spent time in Segovia, Salamanca, and Ávila, a return trip to Toledo in Castilla-La Mancha, and then into Madrid for the remainder of the trip.

Castilla y León is the largest province in Europe and is mostly a “high plain”.  So, we were at or around 795 m (2600 ft) to 1131 m (3710 ft) the segment of the trip.  Toledo, a 55-minute drive outside Madrid is at 702m (2034 ft).  Madrid is a bit lower at an elevation of 646 m (2119 ft).  Surprisingly I spent a day with a headache.  The usual triggers: skip a meal, lack of caffeine, and too much alcohol didn’t apply.  I rarely ever get one.  It turns out this sea level dweller was adjusting to the altitude.

I landed in Madrid’s Barajas Airport, rented a car and drove up through the Guadarrama Mountains into Segovia.  First surprise was snow.  The last time I was in Madrid it was hot and the possibility of snow would have seemed crazy!  I passed a ski area on the way to Segovia.  That was the beginning of a new perspective of Central Spain.  Its yet another reason I love traveling off-season.

My pre-trip expectations were for a mostly dry weather.  My previous two trips to Central Spain, I had dry weather every minute of every day of every week.  So, I was prepared for but didn’t expect too much rain – let alone snow.  Rain means museums and there is a wealth of them.

Like anywhere, Spain does have its problems.  As a tourist there is only one that impacts you everyday – smoking!  And they have a loosely enforced No Smoking Law!  If you smoke, you’ll be in heaven.  If you don’t, you’ll find it challenging.  I’ll discuss this in another post.

I shuffled through all the 1000’s of photos from my trip and have put together a gallery on-line.  The link is HERE.  Be warned there are almost 350 photos in the gallery.  There are descriptions that explain each shot.  They are in chronological order.  So, you’ll see similar shots at different points because I wanted to go back again.  Also, I was using a new camera on this trip.  (Of course, I carried the old SLR just in case)  I decided to downsize and go for convenience rather than carry a bulky camera case in addition to all I usually carry (day bag, video camera, guides, maps, etc.)  The new camera is a Canon PowerShot S90 and for the most part I have raves.

I’ll be working on the Spain pages on the Know Your Trip Website in the coming weeks.  Eventually, we’ll be filling in Andalusia and Barcelona.  So look for them.  Enjoy the photos and sharing a little bit of my trip.  I can’t wait to go back!!!!

Happy Tripping!  Carter

It's a Big Wonderful World (And it's yours free) Well, almost . . .

The holidays are over, you’ve sobered up, the gift cards have been spent, and you’ve completed your holiday travel.  Well, if you’re planning on using frequent flyer miles for next year’s holiday travel, you’d better get on it now.

Most airline seats for booking are released 11 months and one day before the flight is scheduled to depart.  So, if you’re planning on award travel for Christmas it’s already time to get on it.  Here’s the rub: you won’t be able to book your complete itinerary if you are planning on returning after Christmas – it’s too early.  So, for those of you that are planning to return before Christmas, you’d better book away.  You may already be too late!

The Wall Street Journal has a good primer on what to do to maximize your odds of being able to book award travel.

Even though recession-weary consumers may want to cash in frequent-flier miles to get free trips and upgrades more than ever these days, it’s gotten harder to snare those awards. Even though recession-weary consumers may want to cash in frequent-flier miles to get free trips and upgrades more than ever these days, it’s gotten harder to snare those awards.

Read on →

If you haven’t booked an award travel for several years, be ready for a shock.  Airlines have increased the amount of miles you need from each seat.  In 2003 on-United Airlines, the required frequent flier miles, in economy, was 50,000 miles.  In 2010, the Saver Award in Economy is 55,000 miles and the Standard Award is 110,000 miles!

I’ve already booked my summer award travel to Europe.  I booked that travel last November and it was already slim pickings.  I didn’t get my ideal times and ideal cities.  I wasn’t able to book any first class seats (for 2, singles were available) and settled for business on a partnered airline.  Note: The intra-European flights are easy to book; the “over-the-water” flights are the problem.  There are only so many flights “over-the-water”.

I enjoy traveling during the December holidays and since I am unable to book the return portion of my trip (post Christmas) at this time, I have to be poised to jump on the seats for the date the moment they become available.  The problem I will find, by then, is that the departure seats will be slim pickings.

Be diligent and it will pay off.  Remember, to keep working hard and keenly to get those miles.  You deserve the flights you want for that dream holiday.

Happy Tripping,

Carter

As you’ll find out, as a Trip-er, Italy has always been my favorite travel destination.  There are many places I may love certain aspects of more but for overall holiday satisfaction – Italy does it – with Spain a close second.  The history, the food, the services, and above all the people are a great combination that is hard to beat.

While touring Italy, there’s one simple thing that brings my whole being into a satisfying blisssssssss.  That one thing is gelato.  I have a scoop or two everyday.  It’s just better than ice cream!  The flavors are rich and don’t taste artificial.  The vendors take pride in the craftsmanship and presentation of their flavors.  The consistency is a bit like melted ice cream – creamy and smooth.  

I take my touring seriously, almost as serious as my food.  My days are long and strenuous because my favorite mode of travel is my feet.  A couple of scoops of gelati mid-afternoon gives me the welcome boost in energy and comfort.  I just make sure  I don’t enjoy it at night after dinner because I know I’ll be wearing it and it’ll slow me down the next day.  Dinner time in Italy is quite late and something that high in calories before bed is not the best for a Tripper.

I have been in Italian Semifreddo Bliss as well.  It translates into “half frozen”.  I had it fresh scooped several years ago while touring Milan.  (I’ll research my journal notes for the exact spot if someone wants)  Semifreddo has the consistency of half-frozen whipped cream meets custard.  During all my subsequent trips to Italy I have not run into fresh semifreddo again.  I have seen a few frozen balls of semifreddo – it just couldn’t possibly be as good as fresh.

Rome has the Gelato Mecca –  Giolitti’s, the original Gelateria Opened in 1900 (1909 on he building) – the best in Rome and you will measure all gelato you eat in future against it. Via Uffici del Vicario 40, Rome, Italy 00186 · PH 06-6991243 And who can complain about scoopers in military style uniforms.  You’ll be saluting after your first bite!

So, on your next trip to Italy, find yourself in Gelato Bliss and if you’re really fortunate, semifreddo bliss. Yum!